the Possession of P. Le Neve, Norroy King of Arms. In a Visitation Book in the Office of Heralds, it appears that the Drapers Coat of Arms was confirmed by William Harvey, Clarencieux; and since by Sir William Segar, Kt. Garter: and so entred Anno 1634. John Tayler, Master.

Pet. Le Neve, Esq;

Of the Drapers I have nothing to say, but concerning those who in the Time of Queen Elizabeth were called The new Drapers, I might say a great deal. The Strangers Italians, French, Dutch, and Flemings that transported themselves into England in the Days of King Edward, but chiefly in the Beginning of Queen Elizabeth, wove Cloth mixed Woolen and Linnen. And this was called The new Drapery, and the Sellers The new Drapers. For before these Times, this new Drapery was made in other Countries beyond Sea, with our Wool that was transported; and being wove, and wrought into Mocadoes, Grograms, Bays, and such like Cloths and Yarn, were sent over again into England, and spent here. For which (beside the Profit of the Merchant) the Queen had a Custom paid. About the Year 1576, it was found that the Queen was a Loser in her Customs and Benefits made by Wool, by reason of this new Drapery. Which appeared by this that followeth.

The new Drapery, what.

The sorts of this new Drapery were various. There were

Various sorts of this new Drapery.

Bays of the
{ double }
{ middle }
{ single }
Rash or Stannet of the Florens making.
Serche, [Searge] of the French sort.
Says of the Flanders sort.
Norwich Grograin.
Narrow Woolsteds.

{ double }
{ middle}
{ tuft }
Fustians of Naples.
Blankets, called Spanish Ruggs.
Knit Hose of Woolsted Yarn.

Now they made the Queen's Loss by this Manufacture to appear thus. A Sack of Wool weighed 364lb. and being transported by the Merchants of the Staple, yielded to her Majesty

The Queen's Loss by this Manufacture.

{ Custom 6s. 8d. }
{ Subsidy 33s. 4d. }
{ License 20s. }
that is 3l.

The Sack of Wool, being converted into Cloth, would make four broad short Cloths. And every broad short Cloth by the Statute of King Edward VI. in the 5th and 6th Years of his Reign, having their full Content and Proportion limited, being clean scoured, well milled and thicked, and thorow dry, over and beside all manner of Waste, must weigh 64lb. And every broad short Cloth, being transported as beforesaid, yielded to her Majesty 26s. 8d. The which is less Profit to her, than the Sack of Wool being transported as beforesaid yielded, by 33s. 4d.

The said Sum of 3l. for her Majesty's Duty on the Sack of Wool being divided into 360 Parts, amounteth to 2d. on every Pound Weight of the Sack, saving some odd Pounds.

And her Duty of 6s. 8d. the Cloth being divided into 64 Parts, which is for so many Pound Weight as the broad Cloth weigheth, amounteth to one Penny Farthing on every Pound.

In Consideration of the Loss that her Majesty had by the making of this new sort of Cloths within the Realm, in the Custom and Duty of the Wool, that otherwise would be transported, and in the Custom and Subsidy that should be paid at the returning of the same in Cloths; it was thought reasonable, that there should be paid for all such Cloths, and other like new sort of Cloth and Crewel, Lace and Fringe, that should be made within the Realm, of Wool, by Englishmen and Strangers upon every Pound Weight.

How to be remedied.

It was thought necessary also, for the better levying of the said new Duty, and for the understanding of the Goodness of the said Cloths, and what Quantity of Wools should be yearly made into such sorts of Cloths and Wares, (to the Intent it might be considered what Loss her Majesty thereby should have in her Customs) that all the same should be sealed by special Officers, with Seals made for the Purpose. And that a Book be made thereof, and delivered yearly into the Exchequer. And the same Officers to take for the sealing of the same, such Fees as were then paid in any City, Town and County of the Realm in the like case.

To be sealed.

This City also had some Complaint to make concerning the matter before us. For this new Drapery made and woven in the Realm, was brought frequently to the City, there to be sold. And because these Cloths were not of the same Names, that the Cloths of Woolen or Linnen of ancient Time were, altho' they consisted of the same Substance, the Makers and Merchants pretended a Liberty to themselves to make their Markets thereof, and to buy and sell the same in Inns, Chambers and Warehouses, and all other Parts of the City and Liberties, at their pleasures, to the Deceit of the Queen's Subjects, and the more easy Utterance of naughty and deceitful Wares: and for the more easy intruding upon the Liberties of the City by foreign buying and selling: Whereas by common Usage and ancient Custom used in the City, and by old Laws and Ordinances made and executed in the said City, all manner of Commodities, Cloths and Merchandizes made and wrought within the Kingdom, and brought here to be sold, ought to be brought unto such common Market-place, as to that purpose in the same City was appointed; and there only ought to be bought and sold. And the Owners thereof did there pay Hallage and other Duties. Which was so done, that good and lawful Wares should be bought and sold; and corrupt and unlawful Bargains and Contracts, tending to the Deceit of the People, and contrary to the Laws of the Realm, might be avoided: and also, that there might be no foreign buying and selling, in fraud of the Liberties, Franchises and Customs of the City, being confirmed and ratified by Acts of Parliament.

The City's Complaint of the new Draperies.


Therefore the Lord Maior, Aldermen and Common Council of the City did ordain, that from henceforth no manner of Cloth of the new Device, Commodities and Merchandizes aforesaid, made of Wool, or of Woolen and Linnen together, not accustomed heretofore to be brought to Blackwel-Hall, which hereafter should be brought to the City to be sold, should be brought to the common Market-place, named The Wasted Hall, situate at the North end of the Old Jury, in the Ward of Basinghal within this City; and there from thenceforth should be bought and sold. And that no Person free of the City, or any other dwelling within the Liberties, or having any House, or Shop, or Room within the same City, should from thenceforth, there or elsewhere, take in, harbour, or bestow, or suffer to be taken in, received, &c. any of the said Cloths of the new Device, before the same be brought to the Market-place aforesaid, thereunto appointed, and there harboured, taken in, bought and sold. The Market Days for the said Cloth of the new Device to be every Tuesday and Wednesday, from Eight till Eleven Forenoon, and from One until Four Afternoon. And the Officers of the said Hall

An Ordinance of the City, to bring the new Drapery to be sold in Blackwel Hall.

Wasted Hall.