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Rome, 27 June 1770
We arrived here in Rome at 8 o`clock yesterday evening by mail coach, taking 27 hours for a journey that took 4 and a half days by vitturino. But we really flew. Count Kaunitz didn`t arrive until today: I thought it would be better if we travelled on our own as it`s not always possible to find enough horses at the post-stages, in which case we`d have had the honour of spending half a day at the post-stage waiting for the horses to return, all the more so in that I knew that His Excellency General Koch was leaving for Rome with 5 horses and a certain Englishman with 7. And so we left Naples on our own and I told everyone we met that I was the steward of the imperial ambassador, because the stewards of such gentlemen are held in high regard hereabouts. This not only made my journey safer, but I was also given good horses and prompt service, while in Rome I didn`t need to go to the customs house to have our things examined. Instead I was received at the gate with a deep bow and simply told to drive on, leaving me so pleased that I tossed a few paoli at them. As we`d slept only 2 of the 27 hours of our journey and had eaten nothing in the carriage except for 4 cold roast chickens and a piece of bread, you can easily imagine how hungry, thirsty and tired we were. Our good Signora Uslenghi gave us some well-cooked rice, and apart from that we ate only a couple of soft-boiled eggs each etc. and once we`d been shown to our room, Wolfg. sat himself down on a chair and immediately began to snore and to sleep so soundly that I completely undressed him and put him to bed without his showing the least sign of waking up but went on snoring even though I kept having to lift him from his chair and set him down again, before finally dragging him over to his bed, still sound asleep. When he woke up, it was after 9 the next morning and he did not know where he was or how he had got into bed; he had spent the whole night lying in the same place.
We are well, thank God. Tomorrow and the day after, we`ll be seeing the fireworks, the girandola etc. and all manner of similar sights, followed by the handing over of the Neapolitan tribute footnote1 and Mass and Vespers at St Peter`s. I`m surprised that Herr Meissner wasn`t in Salzb. when you wrote to me but even more surprised to learn that he hadn`t written to you in Salzb. if it`s true that he`s been delayed by illness. I`ve heard nothing from him. So Mlle Troger hasn`t left yet? I assume that this letter will arrive in time for you to give her my best wishes. Don`t reply to this letter until I write to you again. By now you must have received the letters that I wrote to you in Naples on 5, 9 and 16 June. To date, I`ve received all your own letters. In Naples the impresario Signor Amadori saw and heard Wolfg. at Jomelli`s and invited him to write an opera for the Teatro Reale a San Carlo, but because of Milan we were unable to accept his invitation. The impresario then declared that he fully understood that it wasn`t worth our while to travel to Naples for a single opera, but that he wished and hoped that sooner or later Wolfg. would write an opera for Bollogna or Rome; he simply asked us to let him know about this and he would then send him a scrittura for the Teatro Reale. Herr Hornung has asked for some arias. footnote2 You can give him whatever he wants. Likewise Herr Spitzeder, if he wants something. They can choose what they want as long as they return it. May you and Nannerl remain well: we kiss you both 1000 times. I am
your old
All conceivable good wishes to all our friends inside and outside the house.
Herr Meuricoffre was with us when we left. He showed us the greatest kindnesses. On our final day he rustled up one hundred and 25 ducats, partly in Romani, the rest in cigliati and zechini in order for us to be able to exchange or get rid of most of our Neapolitan uncias or oncie d`oro as these aren`t accepted outside Naples.
Please use the following reference when citing this website:
Eisen, Cliff et al. In Mozart's Words, Letter 193 <http://letters.mozartways.com>. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.
In Mozart's Words. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.