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À Madame / Madame Marie Anne Mozart / à / Salzbourg
Naples, 9 June 1770

It`s starting to get hotter; even so, I put on a cloth suit today, but was otherwise wearing only a shirt. In this way we`ll gradually make ourselves lighter. We`re well, thank God. Two days ago we had lunch with Monsieur Mericoffre, who sends you both his best wishes, whereas yesterday and today we had lunch with Baron Tschudi on account of the sad fast days of Ember Week. footnote1 He, too, sends you both his best wishes. You`ll have received my letter of the 5th, together with the others of the 19th, 22nd, 26th and 29th. It`s unlikely that we`ll receive a further letter from you in reply to my first letter from Naples, as it`s now definite that we`ll leave either on the 16th with the procaccio or on the 20th with the mail coach. And so I`ll find your letters waiting for me in Rome. If you reply to this letter as soon as it arrives, I can still receive your answer in Rome, or else Herr Marcabruni can forward it. Before I leave here, I shall write once or twice more and tell you where to send your letters. In some ways it`s a pity that we can`t stay any longer here as there are various interesting things to be seen here during the summer; and the choice of fruit, herbs and flowers changes from one week to the next. The situation of the town, the fertility of the area, the liveliness of the people, the unusual sights etc. and a hundred other beautiful things make me regret having to leave Naples: but the filth, the hordes of beggars, the appalling and, indeed, godless townsfolk, the poor education of the children and the incredibly licentious goings-on even in church allow us to leave even the good things with a clear conscience. I shall not only bring back with me all the rare sights in the form of many beautiful copper engravings footnote2 but have also received from Herr Meuricoffre a fine collection of Vesuvius lava - not the kind of lava that anyone can easily get hold of, but choice pieces with a description of the minerals that they contain and that are rare and hard to come by. If God allows us to return home in good health, you`ll see some beautiful things. Give our best wishes to all our friends inside and outside the house. Keep well, both of you. We kiss you both 1000 times, and I am your
old Mozart

Our servant has just this moment brought news that the sedia we were hoping for is available. And so I shall be leaving with the mail coach on the 20th and be in Rome in 26 hours, otherwise it would have taken 4½ days with the procaccio on a road which, although very beautiful, has the most appalling inns. Our best wishes to Herr Meisner; he can describe these inns to you. The sedia belongs to the general of the Augustinian Fathers. Tomorrow we`re lunching at the Augustinian monastery of S Giovanni a Carbonara, where they`re holding a great feast. Today we saw the Swiss regiment engaged in target practice; the regiment, of which Mlle Tschudi`s father is commander in chief, did itself proud, and the Italian regiments are certainly no better than our 2 companies of the civil guard. Next week we`ll be visiting Vessuvius, the 2 buried cities footnote3 where entire rooms from classical antiquity are currently being excavated, then Casserta etc., in a word, all the sights of which I already own copperplate engravings. I don`t have enough space to describe the terrible superstitions and the vast number of the most godless idolatries that are typical of the people here. Get Herr Meisner to tell you all about them. But don`t think that by `the people` I mean only the lazaroni, footnote4 no! Even high-ranking people are filled with superstition. I could certainly tell you a thing or two. And it`s no small matter when you hear someone calling out to God: May God ask San Gennaro footnote5 to help a person in this or that predicament.
Please use the following reference when citing this website:
Eisen, Cliff et al. In Mozart's Words, Letter 190 <http://letters.mozartways.com>. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.
In Mozart's Words. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.