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Bologna 21 July 1770
Although Wolfgangerl and I are late in congratulating you and Nannerl on your name day, footnote1 we hope that we`ve missed it by no more than a week. You were no doubt expecting this, as you knew that we were on the road. True, I was planning to write to you en route, but the letter would have gone to Venice and from there would probably have been forwarded to Vienna before reaching you in Salzb. We hereby congratulate you both with all our heart and wish you good health and, above all, the grace of God, for there is nothing that we need but this, everything else comes of its own accord. We left Rome with a vetturino at 6 o`clock on the evening of 10 July, travelling all night without sleeping and arriving at 5 in the morning at Civita Castellana, where we drank some chocolate, then threw ourselves into bed and slept till 10, before attending Mass in the Cathedral, after which Wolfg. played on the organ, we then had lunch and slept for a few more hours, before setting off again at half past 4. We travelled all night on the first stage of the journey only as a precaution against malaria. On the other days we always set off at 3 or 4 in the morning, travelling till 8 or 9 o`clock, then breaking our journey till 4 in the evening, before resuming our journey till 8 or 9 at night. I should add that this was one of the most tiring journeys I`ve ever made, partly because we got so little sleep, partly because of the incredible amount of vermin - fleas and bugs - that prevented a not entirely exhausted body from sleeping, but above all because of my leg, footnote2 which, although more or less recovered, opened up again as a result of the constant jolts on the journey and which was so swollen at its lower end that it was the same size as my calf. As a result I was unable to run any errands and had to content myself with simply looking on and ensuring that my leg was stretched out on the bed as soon as we arrived at our destination. It turned out, then, to be the 16th when we performed our devotions in Loretto. I bought 6 little bells and various other things. NB. In addition to the other relics, I`m also bringing a piece of the Holy Cross back with me from Rome. We met Herr Brinsechi in Sinegaglia, where the famous fair is now being held, we looked in on it, and it`s certainly worth seeing. The whole of the coast from Loretto to Rimmini is teeming with soldiers and sbirri, footnote3 who are standing around in groups every 150, 200 or 300 paces as well as on the tops of various hills in order to prevent pirates from landing and harassing travellers. I`ll tell you more about this in due course. We arrived here at 8 in the morning on the 20th. footnote4 My initial concern was to spend the whole day in bed, where I also took my meals, just as I have done today; my leg is now visibly better and the swelling has practically disappeared; with the next post I shall - with God`s help - be able to give you a full account of my leg`s complete recovery. Yesterday and today His Excellency Count Pallavicini sent me the priest who is the young count`s tutor, offering me doctors and surgeons, on this occasion I simply thanked him, having no need of them, thank God. His Excellency also offered me his carriage and everything else we might need. I shall accept the carriage as soon as I`m minded to go out; but we`ll have to remain here for a while as we can`t continue our journey until my leg is fully recovered. I wouldn`t have left Rome if it hadn`t been necessary to do so on account of the increasing danger of the heat and foul air: and yet to everyone`s amazement the mornings and evenings have continued to be not just fresh but so cold that on the night we travelled from Rome to Civita Castellana we had to pull our furs over our coats to protect ourselves from the cold; and we drove into Sinegaglia at 8 in the morning with our furs wrapped round us. We were lucky that we`d not been able to pack our furs in the trunk. The whole of Italy is amazed at this weather. Not until the last 2 days has it begun to get much warmer. If Wolfg. continues to grow, he`ll be quite tall by the time he gets home. By next winter he`ll no longer be able to wear the cloth suit that was made for him in Salzbg., the waistcoat was already too small for him last winter. Farewell. I kiss you both and am your old


I congratulate Mama on her name day and hope that she lives many hundreds of years and always remains in good health, something for which I ask God constantly, praying for this every day, just as I shall pray for you both every day. I can`t offer you anything at present, except for a number of small bells from Loreto and some candles, bonnets and fleas, which I`ll give you when I get home, meanwhile farewell, Mama, I kiss Mama`s hands 1000 times and remain until death
her faithful son
Wolfgang Mozart.


My dear sister, footnote5
I hope that God will always grant you good health and allow you to live another hundred years and that He`ll let you die when you`re a thousand. I hope that you`ll get to know me better in the future and that you`ll then judge how much you like me. I don`t have time to write very much: my pen isn`t worth a brass farthing and neither is the person who`s wielding it. We still don`t know the title of the opera that I have to compose. Addio.


Our landlady in Rome gave me the Arabian Nights in Italian; footnote6 it`s great fun to read.


Best wishes to the whole of Salzb. and especially to all Mariandels. Continue to write to me in Bologna.
I`m not especially surprised to hear the 2 unfortunate tales of those who are a few figures late with their accounts. footnote7 What I find more surprising is that in the light of examples like these no one has kept a closer eye on things. But how could it be otherwise? - Low salaries! Large vessels! And long throats! You mentioned that Herr Meissner has arrived and that he`s spoken to you: but you don`t say where he was delayed for so long. - Is it true that he was ill? - Our best wishes to him.
Please use the following reference when citing this website:
Eisen, Cliff et al. In Mozart's Words, Letter 199 <http://letters.mozartways.com>. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.
In Mozart's Words. Version 1.0, published by HRI Online, 2011. ISBN 9780955787676.